We Laugh in the Face of Danger ---- Then Run and Hide until It Goes Away

Watching TV yesterday morning, we saw shots of protesters outside the government buildings in Bangkok. It seemed awfully civilized when we were watching, with everyone kind of standing around and sipping water. At one point, it looked like a protester and a police officer were sharing water. We made up dialogue for them: "What are you doing for lunch? I'm thinking Pad Thai." "I'd come but I have to refill my tear gas canister. Maybe dinner?"

"Pshaw," we said. "This is not an uprising." Jordan noted that he would only start to worry if 1) someone died or 2) they were lighting cars on fire. "Learn from our people!" we shouted to the calm rioters on TV.

(What's going on: The government has been shaky since 2006, when the then-Prime Minister was ousted in a coup and accused of corruption and abuse of power. He is now in London to avoid trial. The first man who replaced him was accused of simply being a proxy and members of the People's Alliance for Democracy (PAD) took up occupancy outside government buildings six weeks ago and pledged to stay there until that man was removed from office. A court did that in September, but then the protesters were further pissed off when Parliament elected the bad former PM's brother-in-law as the new PM, and if you think people were shouting "conflict of interest" before, now they're bellowing it. According to The Washington Post, "The People's Alliance for Democracy include royalists, wealthy and middle-class urban residents and union activists, all of whom feel threatened by political and social change. ... The alliance claims Thailand's electoral system is susceptible to vote-buying, and that the rural majority, the [supporters of the original Prime Minister are] not sophisticated enough to cast ballots responsibly.") (A time line of events can be found here: http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2008/10/07/AR2008100701425.html)

So last night, as you may recall, we'd planned to go to Rama V's statue for our pilgrimage -- and to check out the scene, since the Parliament was nearby, even though Tim said, "Do not go up there. Too dangerous. For me." (We were sitting in the backseat and I didn't respond to this and Jordo side mouthed, "We're going, aren't we." I nodded, "Of course.") She told us how perceived danger was driving away tourists, and tourism is the country's biggest industry.

BUT, when we tried to take a taxi from our hotel to that area, we were told no driver would get close because it was too close to the "mob," as everyone kept calling it.

This morning, we get to breakfast and pick up the Bangkok Post and it's all, "Brink of Anarchy!" Two people died, there was a picture of a car on fire, and some other people had lost limbs, including a man who allegedly had a bomb in his pocket that he was not happy to see. Tear gas had been used. Protesters were determined to interrupt the new PM's first speech to Parliament, blocking the building and refusing to let the members leave. PM, target of so much outrage, climbed over a fence to escape.

Uh oh.

So of course, we had to go to the government center.

We had to lie a bit to get there: We told our driver we wanted to go to the boxing stadium not far away. Driving along the main street, there were a few uniformed officers standing around, but they did not inspire worry or fear since 1) I outweigh every Thai woman and 2) I outweigh about half of the Thai men. (They are tiny! My monstrous American body would shrug off their attempts to club me. ) Plus, Jordo noted earlier when we saw soldiers at the airport that their guns didn't have clips.

So we get dropped off at the stadium. As our driver pulled away, Jordo was like, "Wait until he's out of sight. We don't want him to think we lied to him." Meanwhile, driver, happily speeding away with bhat in hand, never looking back at two dumb Yankees who are looking for trouble.)

So the mob scene: Today, it was anything but. In fact, it was one of the cleanest, calmest protests that I'd ever seen.

Since people have been camped out here since August, they have sleeping areas roped off, people cooking food and giving it away for free, vendors selling t-shirts, and massive amounts of bottled water. Many people were wearing their yellow PAD t-shirts and just hanging out, talking quietly. We were greeted with smiles and allowed to take pictures whenever we asked -- One man, noting that we had just taken a picture of a door mat imprinted with a "Wanted" poster and images of the former PM and his wife, gestured us back for another photo that featured his feet near their heads. There was a featured speaker in a separate area -- we were allowed in after a quick pat for weapons -- and the loudest people got was when they agreed with something she said and they rattled their plastic clapping hands like the ones people use at sporting events.

In one area, we saw police riot gear just lying about, as if the police had said, "Hey, do you guys mind if we store this here in case we need it later? It's a bitch to drag these shields around." I saw one man that appeared injured -- he had a bandage across his nose-- but it's unknown how that happened or if it even had anything to do with this situation.

But honestly, walking here and seeing this? It felt real. We'd gone to an area of the city for dinner last night that felt like Bourbon Street and it was icky and fake and filled with tourists like us. The scene around the government center was real life, whether we liked it or not.

And when you're in one part of the city, say near our hotel or at any of the monuments, you don't know bad things are happening elsewhere. Maybe people are talking about it in the streets and we just don't know it beause we don't speak the language, but I don't think so. Jordo and I were wondering if there'd been similar deadly protests on Capital Hill, would people in Georgetown act differently? You would think so.

We were told many times before coming here about how friendly Thais are and it's been true, to the point that we paranoid Americans are always like, "What's the angle? Why is this guy talking to us in the street? What does he want?" Most of the time, it seems, he/they want nothing more than to be friendly and help. We found that same welcoming spirit among the protesters.

Of course, later in the afternoon, multiple dudes tried to scam us and we got into a cab where the driver faked a break down after going around in a circle since we wouldn't agree to let him take us on a longer guided tour and then demanded money (He got less than $1), but we still believe most people are good-hearted. Let's see what tomorrow brings.

Aside: Jordo suggested I name the future country that I rule as Queen, "Natistan." I am considering it. I like the idea of "Natistanis."